Myanmar Budget Travel Guide

Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) is a rising star on the Southeast Asia travel circuit. Following government reforms and lifting of international sanctions in 2012, it’s become a favorite among travellers looking something a bit different, or perhaps seeking an escape from the busy tourist sights and crazy party crowds in neighbouring Thailand.

While it might not stay this way forever, Myanmar feels authentic and mostly unspoiled by mass tourism. Locals may greet you with friendly curiosity and, to the bewilderment of travellers used to having to drive a hard bargain elsewhere in Asia, taxi drivers might just charge you the normal local rate. It’s a low-key destination perfect for those wanting to immerse themselves in the local culture, food, and nature, and don’t particularly need to be near any luxury beach resorts.

The temples of Bagan are Myanmar’s star attraction, and while they are impressive I found the everyday experiences in Myanmar ultimately the most memorable. In the cities, you can grab a plastic chair at a roadside tea house and just watch the people passing by, often wearing longyi sarongs or a traditional cosmetic face paint called thanakha. You can rent a scooter and meander through the countryside, or take a train journey and enjoy the hustle and bustle on a creaking old train chugging its way through the landscape. You’ll get the most out of Myanmar if you can create your own little adventures.

Don’t miss out on the food either. Go to a local restaurant and you might be delighted with an array of little plates and bowls, each containing something delicious. Foodie and traveller Anthony Bourdain has listed Burmese food as one of the most underrated in the world, and he’s probably right.

I should mention that I visited Myanmar in mid-2013, which is a while ago now at this point. At the time of my visit the first ATMs were only just being connected to the international banking systems and travellers were still recommended to bring lots of USD in cash (this is not needed anymore). I’ve since been updating this post to reflect the changing visa regulations, permitted areas, and to include some tips from friends who visited in 2016, though always keep in mind that travel information for Myanmar is pretty changeable as the country increasingly opens up.

Places to visit in Myanmar

Travel in Myanmar can still be limited in some respects, as visitors are legally restricted from going to certain areas (in particular in the east and far north). Many travellers stick to what’s often called the ‘tourist triangle’ of Yangon, Bagan and Inle Lake, though plenty of other places are also accessible.

The map below shows just a few of the best places to visit and top things to do in Myanmar.

The top attraction in the north is no doubt the temple complex of Bagan, an archeological site with over 2200 ancient Buddhist temples and pagodas. Bagan offers spectacular views particularly at sunset, and it’s often (and rightly) mentioned in the same breath as Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Borobodur in Indonesia.

There are some good treks and day-hikes in Myanmar especially around tourist magnet Lake Inle or the quiet town of Hsipaw.

In the south you’ll find the commercial capital of Yangon, which is home to many markets, golden temples and chaotic little back-streets.

In Kyaikto, east of Yangon, you can visit a Buddhist pilgrimage site which famously had a big Golden Rock perched on the edge of a cliff — this sight will be conveniently on-route if you’re entering Myanmar overland from Thailand via the most commonly used border crossing at Myawaddy.

If you’d like to get away from the cities you can head for the coast, where Chaungtha and Ngapali are two small and barely developed beach towns. Mrauk-U on the far west coast is a temple complex similar to Bagan, though it takes a long time to reach and is much less visited (which can, of course, be the perfect reason to go). I didn’t get a chance to see Mrauk-U, but you can find more information and photo impressions of this place on this blog.

While alternative itineraries are possible, many travellers ultimately end up spending much of their time around Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay, and from there adding various excursions into other areas.

Yangon

The main attraction in Yangon is the Shwedagon Pagoda, a huge gold-roofed Buddhist temple. Sunset is an excellent time to go as the dome will be gleaming beautifully in the orange sun.

Apart from the pagodas, some people might feel that Yangon is not particularly rich in major ‘sights’ or museums, but I think there’s plenty to experience. You can have a wander through the streets and markets, or sit down in a tea house and watch people go about their business. Chinatown is a great area for street photography or to sample some very yum street food.

Interestingly, motorbikes are outlawed in Yangon. According to rumor a well-placed individual in the army had once been in a motorbike related accident, and then decided the city could just as well do without them. I am not sure if this is exactly how this law came to be, though it has resulted in the streets of Yangon having a relatively quiet and pleasant character.

Mandalay

Mandalay is the second largest city, and it’s mainly a great base for daytrips to various sights in the area. You can take a taxi or rent a scooter and make your way to the U Bien Bridge, Myanmar’s iconic 2.5 km long teak bridge across a lake, which is also the cover image of many Myanmar guidebooks. Another popular sight is Mandalay Hill, which has some great viewpoints where you can see the entire city below.

With lots of motorbikes and many power generators set up outside of buildings (as backups for use during power cuts), Mandalay is not quite as walkable or as tranquil as Yangon. Still, there is a lot of interesting city life to see here, and you’ll find various markets with great Burmese street food.

Bagan

With over 200 temples dotted around the landscape, Bagan is quite the sight. You can explore the area on your own by foot or by renting bicycles, or get a guide with horse carriage to ride you around.

A few of the temples you can climb on top of, and these make for perfect viewing points at sunset. Don’t miss this spectacular panoramic view! (It’s easiest to ask your guide or hostel where these particular temples are.)

Seen as a whole the temples of Bagan are especially impressive, though it’s maybe worth saying they’re fairly identical when exploring up-close, and many of the temples are essentially empty inside. By the time you’ve seen your tenth temple you’ll probably be ‘templed out’, but I’m only saying that to temper expectations slightly. You can easily spend a full day exploring the area.

Lake Inle

Lake Inle is the second big attraction in Myanmar after Bagan, though unlike the rest of the country things can feel decidedly inauthentic here. If you go on one of the boat tours, you’ll likely be dropped off at various tacky souvenir shops. Some of these shops have a member of the long-neck Karen tribes almost as a kind of human display. While the lake is beautiful, it’s becoming full of noisy longboats and there have been alarming reports about the ecological impact of tourism on the lake. Maybe these boat tours can be skipped. (They’re not so special anyway.)

The town of Nyaung Shwe is the main travel hub in this area from which to go on excursions. A worthwhile trip is to Inthein, a sort of mini version of Bagan. The hundreds of small crumbling temples and stupas here are overgrown with gnarly trees and foliage, giving these ruins a bit of an Indiana Jones feel.

A good way to see the beautiful nature near lake inle—and much less tacky or invasive than the boat tours—is to go on a trek. I did a 2 day trek from the town of Kalaw to Nyaung Shwe which was very enjoyable.

Train to Hsipaw

Riding a train in Myanmar is quite the experience! If you can find enjoyment just in the act of travelling itself, I recommend taking a train in Myanmar at least once.

A popular route is the circle line in Yangon and you can read a great reportabout this on the blog Borders of Adventure.

Another recommended journey is the one between Mandalay and Hsipaw. You can get a minivan or taxi to the town of Pyin Oo Lwin first and then get on the train in the early morning, so you can catch the best part of the route.

It can be an uncomfortable journey however. If you are prone to motion sickness, the extreme swaying from side to side could easily trigger it.

The train crosses a canyon via the Goteik viaduct which was built during British colonial times. While crossing this bridge was not quite as thrilling as the guidebooks made me believe, this journey is more about seeing the beautiful landscapes passing you by.

It might also be just about the physical experience of being on a super old train. When it picks up speed you will surely be bouncing around the cabin, and you do have to watch your head if you’re near an open window as the trees and bushes get very close. At certain points during my ride, the train basically turned into a giant hedge trimmer cutting through the jungle, spraying leaves and branches into the carriage through the open windows.

Hsipaw is a great base for hikes in the area east of Mandalay. Since it’s at a higher altitude, it’s pleasantly cooler here compared to Bagan or Mandalay.

Accommodation in Myanmar

Backpackers may bemoan the lack of good hostels in Myanmar, especially those accustomed to the wealth of hostels available elsewhere in Asia. The situation is now gradually changing, and you can find a handful of backpacker hostels mainly in Yangon and Bagan.

These are some suggested hostels (the links go to Hostelworld):

Little Yangon HostelYangonModern hostel with purpose-built bunks (with private storage and reading lights). Centrally located not far from Shwedagon Pagoda.

Ostello Bello BaganBaganCozy Italian-run hostel in Bagan, the town adjacent to the famous temples.

Motherland InnYangonThis hotel quickly turned into a buzzing backpacker hub, probably to its owner’s surprise. This is the original ‘traveller basecamp’ in Yangon; it’s a hotel that feels more like a hostel.

Backpacker MyanmarYangonNewly built capsule hostel at the heart of the capital.

Yoe Yoe Lay HomestayMandalayCurrently the only backpacker style accommodation in Mandalay.

Song Of Travel HostelInle LakeThe first and currently only backpacker hostel near Inle Lake.

BROWSE MYANMAR HOSTELS »

As far as hotels and guesthouses go, not all are equally charming in Myanmar as many of them were formerly government-owned or were targeted mainly at business travellers. This too is changing as new options become available every year. To find good independent hotels or guesthouses I recommend searching on Agoda, which is a booking website specialised in the Asia region and which has the most listings for Myanmar hotels.

Be sure to limit the price range in the sidebar on Agoda to find budget options. For hotels with good atmosphere, I usually sort by review score and then ‘solo travellers’. Even if you’re not travelling solo, those who do usually have a keen eye for places that are friendly and welcoming and so sorting by their review scores can be very helpful in discovering the best places to stay.

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